News flash: the Alaska Highway is never dull. Around every corner, a new vista awaits. And the funny thing is, the vista seems to change with every corner as well. One moment you’re deep in the Canadian Rockies, with walls of stone on every side and a road full mountain goats; go around a bend and it’s deep boreal forest with lichen-covered boulders and mossy spruce. Then grasslands. Then a glacier. Then an Alpine meadow with a clear blue lake in the middle. Always changing, always breathtaking, always something new to ooh and aah. If you ever have a chance in your lifetime, do make the time to drive this route: I’ve fallen in love with it over and over, and we have hundreds of miles left before we even get to Alaska.

We awoke this morning in maybe the coolest campsite yet: Andy Bailey Provincial Park – about 12 miles of potholes and mud off the actual highway. Not surprisingly, we had the place pretty much to ourselves. It had the nicest lake we’ve been at yet – sandy bottom, not TOO cold, no motorized boats allowed. A nice morning swim, and we were off.

Along the way today we saw an enormous herd of enormous bison, clogging the road like sheep in Scotland. Everyone just shuts off their car and waits patiently for them to decide to move on. These animals are impressive – if they wanted to take apart an RV it would be nothing to them. Apparently the herd is growing quickly, and their preferred habitat is the along the Alaska Highway. They are said to sleep on the road when the nights are cool. I think I’ll plan on only driving in the daytime.

The next waypoint today was a place called Muncho Lake. It’s a glacial lake, in the valley of some pretty impressive mountains. The water is the color we have come to associate with the glacial runoff – like tarnished copper. Green and blue and clear and cold. You can se the color change from a light green through to a deep blue just a few feet offshore as the bottom drops away. Stunning.

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We decided not to stay at Muncho, though, because just up the road is a place called the Liard River hot springs.

Liard River is a highlight, for sure. Whereas elsewhere in Canada, the springs have all been diverted into pools that look like they should have Jazzercise classes every hour, at Liard it has been left pretty natural. In fact I’d have to say it has actually been improved, instead of destroyed. There is a natural bank, and the hot spring itself is at one end with a cedar bath house on the opposite bank with steps going down to a rocky bottom. The area has a natural spring-fed stream, so the hot spring mixes with the stream and cools as you go further from the source. Just find your comfort zone and hang out.

Lenny update: we’ve discovered that the big diesel engine does not charge the house deep-cycle batteries, although it is supposed to do so. So after a few days of not being plugged into any source of electricity, the batteries wear down so far that they won’t even start the generator. Rats. So we had to find a place along the way to stop and plug in for a few minutes until the generator would start, and now we have to run the generator for an hour or two every day to keep the batteries topped off. The only other bug so far is that the dash heat doesn’t work. It hasn’t been cold enough to need the furnace, but the morning have been chilly and a little heat would have been nice. Not sure how that’s even supposed to work, really, since the engine is 36 feet from the dash. But when you turn the temperature knob on the dash, no amount of patience is rewarded with warm feet. Aside from that we have had smooth sailing. The rig is clearly high quality, and even in the mountain passes has not had any stumbles or troubles. If you’re OK with 10 miles to the gallon, I highly recommend it.

Time to go roast some bratwurst: the fire is perfect. Take care, everyone. We miss you!