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Thanks to Travellerspoint.com for hosting our map! Travel Map at Travellerspoint
We woke up this morning in one of the most fabulous settings we’ve come across yet: Kusawa Lake in the Yukon Territory. It’s the glacial headwaters of the Takhini River – that now-familiar tarnished-copper green, deep and cold, and ringed by mountains on every side. The campground is about 20 miles off the Alaska Highway, down a dirt road that sees minimal use.
Rule of thumb: the further you have to drive down a crappy road to get to it, the better the campsite. This one was no exception. Quiet and clean, and with a stone beach that’s exposed to the wind coming down the mountain and across the lake. We loved it. No one besides me could be talked into a swim; this probably had to do with the fact that only idiots swim above 60 degrees latitude.
After leaving Kusawa Lake, we had to drive BACK to Whitehorse. I think this may have been the first time on our trip we’ve really gone backwards. But Whitehorse is the only place for many many miles with a reliable cell connection and a FedEx office, and we were expecting closing documents for the Anchorage house that needed to be turned around right away.
Well, to make a long story short, the documents never came. After talking with the realtor and banker numerous times we decided that the smart choice would be to make haste for Anchorage so we could be there for closing on Friday. I’m certain we’ve not heard the last chapter in this saga. Buying this house has been a nightmare from the start.
So we turned back around and started the run to Anchorage. It’ll be two long days of driving but it should be doable.
Along the way, a few more points of interest:
The road condition of the Alaska Highway in the Yukon is awful. There are long (like, 40-mile-long) stretches where the pavement has been ripped up and then they apparently ran out of money, because it’s been left to revert to primordial double-track connecting an endless progression of potholes. Roads don’t get that bad overnight. Definitely the most tooth-rattling part of the trip so far. If you go slow, the road surface is jarring; if you go fast it’s worse, but it doesn’t last as long.
In Haines Junction, there is a little bakery and café that is utterly delightful. Seems to cater to the hippie crowd and has a few neat little cabins for overnighting. Great lunch and a nice rest stop at the edge of the Kluane Provincial Park.
Kluane Lake is a bit down the road, and is another in a long string of eye-candy landscapes.
And then the big event for the day: crossing the border back into the US! There is about 15 miles of no-man’s land between the Canadian border station and the American one – it felt like a Great White North version of the DMZ. The border crossing itself was pretty uneventful – a short wait, no inspection, and a no-frills ‘welcome to Alaska’ greeting and we were back in the land of miles, gallons, and generally intact pavement. Hooray!
A few hours more down the road we came to Tetlin Wildlife Refuge, and another nice camp. This one was notable for a neat interpretive hike and the fact that it’s a no-fee campground! Alaska, we love you.
Tomorrow we should make it to Anchorage. I expect to still sleep in Lennie, but being so close to our journey’s end has me thinking that the nights we spend together in the RV may be limited. Sad in a way, but it’s about time. I’m ready for the next phase of the adventure!